Hungary has always been one of those countries that fascinated me. I regretted not having devoted any time to explore it during stint exploring Europe by Car. This time around I dedicated two months live in Budapest and travel within to explore parts of the country.
Two months is probably not enough to truly grasp what’s going on within the country, but I’ve witnessed and experienced enough to consider it one of the worst countries to visit.
Keep in mind that these are my own opinions based on my own experiences.
Someone else from a different background than I may have a different experience.
But all is not always right and cosy during travels and I keep as much of an objective opinion as I can.
However, I speak out from what I know and only what I know.
So, YMMV – Your Mileage May Vary.
View from Fishermen’s Bastion, Budapest Hungary
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The migrant crisis has affected the political climate in this otherwise beautiful country. The capital city of Budapest doesn’t show this as much, but as soon as you get out into the suburbs or the countryside, things become more apparent.
Budapest: An Expat’s Paradise
Budapest is home to many ex-pats and digital nomads. Its ideal and centralized location within Europe makes it perfect as a base for western and eastern European excursions. The cost of living is relatively cheaper than its western counterparts.
I was able to rent out a huge room in a flat for 310 Euros a month which I found through a friend’s referral. I decided to stay long-term to chill and also join a gym to recover some atrophied muscles from over a year of constant travel.
Budapest is very international. Ninety percent of the conversations I overhear out on the streets are in English. There are international shops everywhere, and the city is indeed a thriving metropolis. One of the biggest music festivals in Europe also happens here, the Sziget music festival.
The city is fantastic and ideal for beautiful nighttime photos. I’ve spent many sunsets and nights just across the Danube on the Buda side photographing Gelert Hill, Fisherman’s Bastion, and the Buda Castle.The Buda side provides the most photogenic postcard views of Budapest. But the Pest side is where all the parties are at.
Pest is famed for its ruin bars that are unique only to Budapest. These ruin bars become very lively at night, and during the weekends, lines of people would snake around the bars waiting to get in.
The internet infrastructure is the country is fast and ideal for people with remote jobs. My flat was near the central international train station, Keleti Palyaudvar, and I was able to make quick trips to Slovakia, Romania, Austria, and Croatia. On the downside, the city has a very odd and strange odor, and I can smell it everywhere I go.I don’t know where it’s emanating from, but on one incident at night, I saw an old lady positioning herself in between two parked cars while urinating standing up. I don’t know if it’s the smell of urine or a gas leak all over the city.
The Hungarian Countryside: A Brewing Far-right Nationalism
I hitchhiked with a friend who is of Hungarian descent from Cluj to the border town of Biharkeresztes in Hungary. From there, we were going to catch a train to Budapest. Hitchhiking through the border was a bit of a hassle.
The border control was really on alert because of the migrant crisis. Nobody would give us a ride to the border, so we walked it across on foot to hitchhike on the other side.
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We walked about 2 kilometers towards the train station in this town. We came across two farmer teenager carrying scythes. My friend overheard them talking, and he told me later that they were yelling:
“I’m gonna kill you, migrant!”
I can only assume it’s due to my darker skin and black hair that I would be mistaken for a migrant. But that etched a compelling and disturbing image in my head. Imagine if one of those teenagers carrying sharp scythes started swinging at me. Not a very good first introduction to Hungary.
The Far-right faction is represented by Jobbik which regularly blames the country’s ethnic and religious minorities for its woes and in recent years have been reported to form vigilante groups meant to harass minorities, especially gypsies.Bands of vigilante groups are formed to patrol small towns in Hungary and rural villages and threaten and harass the local Gypsy population.
Eger: A Beautiful Place, Kind Of
There was also an incident in Eger where I was flat out refused service.
I went to eat at a restaurant one night and used the Wi-Fi service.
The next morning, I went to the same restaurant now talking to a different server.
I politely asked if I can get a table and use their Wi-Fi.
The server looked at me in disdain and said they had no WIFI. He then told me to go away.
WTF?
I was a paying customer last night and will be again today!
The next day another incident happened where a group of guys who were drinking beer at a restaurant when two dark-skinned individuals passed by, probably Romas (Gypsies) – the group proceeded to harass them.One had formed a fist on his hand and bumped it on the palm of the other proposing to beat the dark-skinned individuals. I was walking past them when this all happened, and I think I was only spared the heckling because I had an expensive camera wrapped around my neck.
I was disturbed by what just happened so I bought a hat that screamed tourist so I would stand out like a sore thumb and look like a tourist instead of a Gypsy. That hat has a large engraving that says “Los Angeles.” It worked like a charm!
I have faced racism before growing up in California during the early 90s. In the suburbs of Sacramento, I was chased by a van full of skinheads who threw rocks at me and calling me a gook.
To their ignorance they had no other derogatory name for a Filipino and all they can muster up was a catch-all insult for all Asians. During these days and age, I would like to think that’s all behind us but that’s not the case, especially here in Hungary.
The Final Train Out of Hungary
After these incidents, I couldn’t wait to get out of Hungary. On the train out towards Slovakia, I ended up in a town called Miskolc. It is an industrial town full of working-class people.
I explored the city for a few hours and did notice a larger Roma population. The people of Miskolc were noticeably friendlier, at least to me. I was greeted with a smile when I asked for information or a mug of beer.
I accidentally dropped 5,000 forints on the ground the guy behind me rushed up and told me I had dropped it. A very helpful and friendly gesture.
In Eger, I didn’t get the same treatment. I felt like I have glared at constantly like I was a stray dog.As I sat on my seat on the final train to Slovakia, I reflected on my experience in Hungary and can only conclude that the EU is weakening.
The EU was meant to avoid the Ethnic Nationalistic movement that devastated the world in the 20th century (the Holocaust).
I hope this trend doesn’t continue because Europe has a long history of ethnic nationalism. My time in Hungary is a stark reminder of this.
HAVE YOU BEEN TO HUNGARY? WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS?
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Wow, thank you for that article. I love Budapest, went there twice but never went in the rest of the country. What you’ve experienced is just horrible. Europe et USA are collapsing… I can’t wait to see what will happen to the next election in France next may actually.
I hope it doesn’t get worse! I like the EU and how easy it is to travel there.
You really need to shut up cause you have no idea what you’re talking about.
I love it how you Americans compare Europe with your american trash hole. First of all Europe is a CONTINENT so you can’t compare it with a country.
Speaking of continents the only reason why this guy is upset with Hungary being a “far-right” country is because of his racist american education where he’s taught that european always means white and Americans are always taught in their racist nation to associate racism with white people.
He even used the american “european descent” argument.
Europe is a continent and Hungarians are not white since the Huns and their empire invaded Hungary.
How can this guy walk on the streets of Budapest and not realize the difference between white Hungarians and obviously mixed Hungarians?
A significant part of the population of eastern and southern Europe is also racially mixed since forever.
Secondly if this guy visited japan, one of the most far right countries in the world and experienced racism I bet his reaction about the country would’ve been different since he learned in his racist nation to always associate racism with white people, even worse with europeans which includes some of the most persecuted and subjugated people throughout history (the eastern europeans) who are also NOT… so white.
Americans are some of the most europhobic and russophobic people in the world et they LOVE visiting an european country or russia from time to time and study us like animals on discovery channel.
America is also one of the most racist nations if not maybe the most racist nation in the world.
First of all, READ before you respond because you sound like an illiterate moron. I’m not talking about Europe and comparing it to America. I’m talking specifically about Hungary – it even says it in the TITLE. Hungary is a COUNTRY, you need to read before writing up your drivel of a response. Europe is a continent? Really?!?! Captain obvious? I’m not comparing Europe to America which is both considered continents (North and South), so please don’t try to CORRECT what you think is a WRONG with an even more IDIOTIC response.
Second, I visited JAPAN, several times – Here, here, and here, and while you may right about how racist the Japanese are; I’ve certainly never experienced the kind of TREATMENT I had in the boonies of Hungary.
So, that brings us to third your little history lesson about the origins of Hungary, Magyars, Mongols, or wherever you think they descended from. You can be racists and prejudiced no matter what the color of your skin or ancestors are. A person can have had genetic ties to Ghenghis Khan (and probably half of Europe has considering he ravaged most of the continent) and still be racists towards Mongolians or Asians.
Lastly to quote you: “Americans are some of the most europhobic and russophobic people in the world et they LOVE visiting a European country or Russia from time to time and study us like animals on discovery channel.” I’m so “Russophobic” that I married a beautiful Russian woman and we bought an apartment together in Saint Petersburg – that’s in Russia the COUNTRY not in Florida the state in the United States (of America).
It’s so sad to read about your experiences of intolerance and prejudice in what is otherwise a beautiful country. I’ve only been to Budapest and Szendentre, and found both of them beautiful (and yes, Budapest’s nightlife can be lively!), so I guess that not venturing in to the more rural areas meant I didn’t get to see the brewing rise of nationalism in the midst of the migrant crisis. We do indeed love in troubled times, with an institution that was set up to stop the horrors of World Wars happening again in very real jeopardy…the France election seems pivotal, so let’s hope the worst doesn’t happen there!
I hope you’re right Joe.
Wow your blog is beautiful! And love the great decription of Budapest, it will definitely be on the list for our next visit to Europe!
Thanks! Architecture in Budapes is amazing :-)
That’s awesome! i love Budapest, but after reading this I think I will have to travel other parts as well.
Cheers!
Eger is cool and Lake Balaton is worth checking out too!
While I wouldn’t want to get stared at like a stray dog, sometimes the places that aren’t used to foreigners and don’t cater to them are so interesting for a host of other reasons. I’d love to visit Hungary to learn and see. It looks just exquisite.
Yes, Hungary is still worth a visit especially Budapest and Eger. But, if you want warm and welcoming people check out Slovakia and Romania.
I love Budapest. I been there a few times, but that was years ago. Your photos really capture the old world charm of Budapest. It’s too bad they didn’t make you feel welcome. They have a beautiful city. They should share it.
The city was fine, it’s very international as mentioned. The suburbs and countryside, not so much.
Wow! How interesting! It sounds like a bit of an odd mixture. Do you think you’d go back?
Probably won’t go back in the near future. There’s so much more in the neighboring area to bother :)
Just like other countries in Europe, Budapest is beautiful too. I guess everyone loved this architectural landmark city. Grateful to read your post. btw, your photos are amazing. Keep going.
Thanks :)
Im dying to experience living in another country. Budapest sounds like a good option. Maybe I can convince my husband to move there. I like that it’s international. Although the peeing standing up thing is quite odd lol.
There are better places to live than Budapest :) Check out places in Bulgaria (Sofia) and Romania (Cluj-Napoca). Cheaper and friendlier people :)
Thanks you for sharing. Budapest is a great city to explore photography. I love the night shots,especially. My wife and I are both of Hungarian decent. We’ve traveled there many times since 2003, both reconnecting with my mother’s extended family and seeking, and finding, my wife’s biological family (she has been given for adoption by a 56 refugee) in any event, our travel have taken us to the north to there take region where my family emigrated fro, spent considerable time in Budapest visited Eger several times, Sopron, Balaton and my son and I spent 3 weeks in Debrecen enrolled in a Hungarian language course at the University. We’ve gotten around. Now I say this because we too have encountered some of the discrimination you have. Ticket agents at the train stations, a clerk in a village bakery, a docent at Eger castle, Not because we are dark skinned (we’re pretty white) but because we are Americans. There is an undercurrent of intolerance in various parts of the country, but fortunately we found that the vast majority of Hungarians are welcoming and hopeful that their country does not fall back into authoritarianism. I believe that the more we, as westerners, travel to countries like Hungary, we encourage those who seek integration in the the greater world community. So thank you again for your adventurism, your courage and your willingness to share your experiences. Peace.
I think Hungary is a beautiful country (amazingly photogenic!) but like other nations have imperfections. I think global integration might have caught on too fast so some of the more traditional areas are having a hard time adapting. Thank you for the little bit of enlightenment. While I’m not glad that you witnessed some of the discriminations I have encountered, it at least puts some things into perspective.
Thank you for your post about Hungary. I love Europe and European languages but what you have experienced and observed about a growth in hate and intolerance is very real and things in the country do not seem to have moved forward since the second world war, to the point where they really should have sanctions made against them, particularly in their mistreatment of Roma. When I first heard some of the news articles, I actually thought that I was reading about the second world war atrocities. All this from the country that received the most from the EU, awful. It will take a lot to improve things but discouraging business and tourism is the best start.
Glad you’re enjoying better hospitality in other countries though and best wishes with your future adventures! :)
Thank you for the thoughtful comment. In this day and age, you would think something like this would not have the broader support from the majority of the country. Fortunately, Budapest is international enough that tolerance will be promoted.
As a Hungarian, I find your article both ignorant and offensive. If you think all Hungarians hate migrants than you must be a racist yourself!
Well, Vincent, wear the shoes of one and walk the road I walked. I don’t think you read the article else you would have read that I entered Hungary with a Hungarian friend and that I did not see the same “issue” in Budapest as I did the other places I’ve visited. I think we have the tendency to read/hear only certain facets about ourselves and choose to ignore the other.
Wow! Sounds like a backwards shithole! I’m white but I can’t stand places like this.
This was just based on my experience and to be fair, it’s outside the main metropolitan cities. The capital city, Budapest, is quite pleasant and I spent over a month traveling there with no issues :)
Hey!
I live in the States but I’m Hungarian and I hate Hungary and the Hungarian people’s mentality who live there.
However I’m having a hard time believing your story. You either made it up or you’re just a great story teller. “I’m gonna kill you, migrant” and not being served at a restaurant and such.
I always support people who bash Hungary as I hate it myself, but I like to stay on the truth’s side.
I never met anyone in my life who ever complained about foreigners and I believe people get excited when they meet a foreigner. Obviously they don’t like syrian refugees and muslims who cause problems due to their obysmal religion, but if you go to a bar and you tell them that you’re American they probably gonna swallow your cum within 15 seconds and the next thing you know is that you’re with 10 models doing excessive drinking combined with unrestrained sexual activity.
Peace!
I have no reason to make this story up. Believe me, I want to love this country. Hell, I love Budapest but that’s representative of the country is it?
If you read any of my blog post about Hungary you won’t see or read any negative connotations about the country. They’re mostly positive. Some of my best cityscapes come from Budapest.
But, I feel I will do my readers a disservice by saying everything’s puppies and ice cream. It ain’t!
What exactly do I have to gain to say the country sucks for guys like me (dark-skinned) to visit? Again, I’m reporting from the first-hand experience – I don’t know Hungarian and if my friend companion translated what he translated to mean “I’m gonna kill you, migrant.”
How am I to react that?
I’m no migrant, I’m just another fucking tourist (albeit a dark-skinned one) pumping money into your economy!
Am I the ignorant one?
Tell me? But you’re Hungarian, have you been to where I’ve been? If somebody in the US throws rocks at me because they’re members of the KKK I’ll report it the same (that’s happened to me BTW). The same here. Telling me I’m making the story up (for what gain) tells me (and you) something about yourself. Why are you so eager to doubt my truth (made up story to you)?
Hungary is protecting their countryman from destruction. In 50 years China will be China and filled with Chinese people. Russia will be Russian filled with Russian people. In 50 years America will be gone. Diversity doesn’t work. The USA was more prosperous when we were primarily a white Nation, full of Europeans. We have descended into a hell hole. The mexicans, and blacks have destroyed this country. Tomgarian people are protecting their country from what is happening to us right now
Xenophobe much? The USA is prosperous because it was built on the labor of “blacks” and “Mexicans.”
Hungary deserves credit for recognizing foreign non western migration into Europe is a fundamental problem that threatens to destroy the genetic fabric of Europe and eradicate its native people. No other group of people in the world is expected to have open borders that will lead to a demise of its people.
Gypsies commit a disproportionately high amount of violence and theft as do black and arab/south Asian migrants in Europe. It’s good the Hungarian population is putting the safety and security of its people first. Hungarians don’t want to allow Hungary to become the rape capital of the world like Sweden has with the African and Arab migration there.
I’ve noticed that former communist countries are the most realistic and hardest fighters against an eradication of traditional family values. They saw what communism means first hand. They don’t want to go back to a system that puts others first like illegal migration does.
The USA is prosperous because it used to be a bastion of religious/economic/social freedom for whites who fled Europe. Whites built complex civilization and is behind nearly every technological innovation. Blacks commit a disproportionate amount of violent crime, breed poverty, and practice a low culture. Every community they are present in the world has the highest crime rates. IQ is a function of race. It’s unfortunate the U.S. has been held down and held back by the black population. Surely, a small percentage (15%) are decent respectable people, however, they are in the minority. It’s unfortunate they themselves are held down by degenerate black rap culture.
Good for Hungary. Good for Poland. Good for Austria. Good for France (maybe they will wake up).